Rising from the embers | The Budapest Times

As a location it ?can easily be overlooked, unless one is really keen to look through the windows of the gyros and cheap mobile-phone outlets that line this part of Kir?ly utca?. That was last November, when The Budapest Times visited the premises of a now-defunct Hungarian restaurant at number 53 of District VII?s Kir?ly utca.
Almost a year on and with a new tenant, it remains just as inconspicuous a shopfront as then, except for a small menu-bearing stand on the street and a flame-shaped insignia far above eye level on the front door.
This is Par?zs, a word that locals might know refers to, first, embers, and second, to a small but expanding group of Hungarian-owned Thai restaurants in Budapest.
The oldest, on District VI?s J?kai utca, actually serves two distinct menus featuring Hungarian and Thai cuisine. Then comes Kis Par?zs, a small, fast Thai soup and wok bar on District VII?s Kazinczy utca.
The latest addition to the family, Kir?ly utca?s Par?zs, opened a couple of months ago with, this time, a menu pairing Thai food with Indian.
A new restaurant means a new lick of paint: the walls are a bright vermilion, sparsely decorated with a piece of carved wood, a shiny statue and a sheet of calligraphy, with more of the Indian than the Thai about it.
Patterned cloths cover the tables, two of which overlook the street at one end and with another raised in a quasi alcove at the opposite end.
Overall the d?cor is understated and perhaps somewhat devoid of atmosphere, though that can be a good thing for those who like exotic food but not exotic knickknacks.
Though the menu is divided into three neat sections ? Thai, Indian and drinks ? there?s a degree of separation of tasks going on too.
There are classic dishes on either side, be it Tom Yum soup, Pad Thai or vindaloo curry, but Thai food is a little pricier, and Indian food provides vegetarian options, the majority of desserts and more drink options (lassi, chai) than its Thai counterpart.
Of course, it is also possible to move from one type of spicy cooking to another according to fancy. Each section offers a similar number of starters, soups and mains, though options are again multiplied because many of the mains come with a choice of meat (beef, chicken, lamb, etc.), prawns or other seafood.

But let?s start with starters. Equally classic as the dishes cited above but just as broadly southeast Asian as Thai, the spring rolls come pre-cut, the wrapping revealing a compact mix containing glass noodles, grated carrot, shredded cabbage and mushrooms. The ingredients are finely cut but still recognisable, ensuring that the flavours are well combined and a good base for the sweet-sour chili sauce alongside.

This sauce also makes a more unexpected appearance with the samosas from the Indian part of the menu ? either a short cut from the restaurant or a sign that its allegiance remains more to Thai food.? The samosa is not so spicy as to require too much sauce, though the dip does cut the richness of the fried pastry and balance out the tasty mix of potato, pea and coriander.

If starters did not prove to be overly spicy, mains certainly made up for that. This was particularly true for the pad pet kaang luang, a mix of courgette, mushroom, bamboo shoots and a good amount of chunks of chicken in a coconut milk broth, topped by a sprig of basil: the ingredients? individual flavours ended up being somewhat overshadowed by the chili and curry paste.

Though the menu listed no vegetable alternative to the meat or fish options to this item, the Massaman curry was chosen as a vegetarian dish following the waiter?s advice. It turned out to be less spicy, with a better balance between the (slightly undercooked) potatoes, peanut, curry and almost creamy coconut base, and the extra garnish of broccoli, carrot, courgette, cauliflower and mushroom. Both came with an ample portion of jasmine rice.
The menu closes with desserts ? carrot halwa, fried banana with honey or sticky rice desserts among the selection ? for those with a large enough appetite. On the drinks side, lassis (a deliciously refreshing, thick and sweet mango version) complement the usual array of water, soft drinks, teas and coffees.

Price points

Starters & soups:?? ?HUF 750-1,450
Mains:?? ?HUF 1,250-2,100
Sides:?? ?HUF 450-550
Desserts:?? ?HUF 550-750
Lassi:?? ?HUF 590-690

Par?zs Thai and Indian Restaurant
District VII, Kir?ly utca 53
?? ?Open Tues.-Sun. 12noon-midnight
?? ?Tel. (+36) 30 716-9919
www.parazspresszo.com (Hungarian only)

Related posts:

1. Govinda Restaurant ? Krishnas serve up Indian
2. Rising to the occasion for a good start to day
3. 56 and rising
4. Corso Restaurant ? Taste of Thailand
5. Bangkok House ? Flavour in the house

Source: http://www.budapesttimes.hu/2012/09/09/rising-from-the-embers/

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